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Expert recommendations and insider tips for first-time visitors and locals alike from ARTĚL’s founder, Karen Feldman, who has lived in Prague since 1994. Click on the links below for detailed reviews – from Feldman’s own unique perspective – of all the best that Prague has to offer...

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Dining & Drinking

Eska: Chic New Bistro & Bakery

Published on February 11th, 2016 in Dining & Drinking

  • Eska (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska cuisine (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska cuisine (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska cuisine (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska cuisine (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

  • Eska (photo courtesy of Eska Ambiente Restaurant)

 

Prague's most highly anticipated new restaurant and bakery, Eska, opened in late 2015 in the increasingly fashionable Karlin district.

 

Located near a number of Czech media offices and the Forum Karlín music venue, it's an open plan, two-story modern space, heavy on blonde wood, brushed steel, and mix and match china, the likes of which Prague has yet to see. Which is all well and good but what about the majorly hyped food?

 

As the restaurant is part of the Ambiente group (parent company to Lokal, Cafe Savoy, et. al.) the food is certainly a departure from the classic Czech fare that largely comprises its portfolio of eateries.

 

The emphasis at Eska is on woodsy cuisine—game, root vegetables, wild greens—and the use of old-fashioned techniques such as fermenting, drying, and fire-roasting recently popularized by Danish chef René Redzepi at his Copenhagen restaurant Noma.

 

 

   

 

 

 

Jerusalem artichoke soup with buckwheat, dried beetroot salad with juniper and rowanberry, and catfish and cauliflower in a creamy dill butter sauce certainly gave the experience a Nordic feel.
 

Though coffee ice cream with potatoes and plum jam and a classic bread pudding (žemlovka) were an inventive twist on humble Czech desserts.

 

The portions are not very big but prettily plated and presented with artful drizzles of reductions and sprinkles of herbs. If you are still hungry afterward, fear not: The ground floor houses a bakery and shop where you can buy fresh loaves of sourdough, Czech open-faced sandwiches (chlebičky) that are made right in front of you on a butcher block table, and a fermented Tibi soft drinks.

 

Eska is the future of Prague of dining—we're veering into London territory here. And while I'm not sure it's worth the trip if you are not a dedicated gourmand, for those looking for a special occasion dinner, or to see how local publishing types do lunch, Eska is just right.

 

If you opt for dinner, I suggest catching a show at neighboring Forum Karlín, a new venue that offers an eclectic range of entertainment (Kraftwerk!) and regularly hosts retro dance parties and high-profile performers.

 

Lunch tasting menu:
Two courses 345 CZK
Three courses 445 CZK

 

Dinner tasting menu:
Three courses 545 CZK
Eight courses 1,000 CZK

 

 

Eska

Pernerova 49, Prague 8 – Karlín
http://eska.ambi.cz/
tel 731 140 884
hours Mon – Fri 11:30 –15:00 and 17:30 – 23:30; Sat – Sun 9:00 –15:00 and 17:30 –23:30
metro Křižíkova
 

 

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